I made a few adjustments to the DIY DSLR Rig that I have been crafting. I made some minor comfort adjustments. I shifted the front support bar over to the right and back toward the camera for better support. I added some fasteners to the handles because there was some front to back wobble. I also did a basic tightening down of everything to reduce any other shake in the rig itself.

The rig is honestly about your comfort. I have provided exact details to what I like and you can make your adjustments from there. I have noticed that the camera support may be a little long. However, I built the support in compensation to use a Canon 70-200mm lens. It seems I may be changing direction in that sense because I’m currently looking to purchase a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8.

The next tutorial will be applying some counter balance to the rig for better support as well as a fitted shoulder mount. Possibly a matte box and Zoom H4N Shock Mount as well.

Continuing with the custom DIY DSLR Rails Rig, I never concluded the best way to mount the camera to the rig itself. I decided to purchase a sliding quick release adapter. I purchased the Manfrotto 357 Pro, which seems to work ideal for what I want it to do. The perk is you can slide the adapter to adjust where you want your camera to be positioned on your rig, based on additional components and to your comfort level.

The reason this tutorial is Part 1.5 is because I haven’t really created anything. I purchased the Manfrotto mount. Mounting the adapter to the rig is quite simple. I may had some more features for stability but for now this works well.

When you get the adapter, separate the release mount from the base. Take the largest mounting screw from the center. You will then screw the base with the largest screw in between the 2 center aluminum rods on the rig. Where along the rig you mount the base plate is absolutely up to you and your comfort level. Mine is closer toward the back because thats where it feels comfortable to me. As for mounting the camera to the sliding plate and back onto the base is pretty self explanatory. 

I used my batter grip to give some leverage so that the viewfinder would meet my eye comfortably. I will be adding a DIY matte box (unless I find a decent lens hood), weights for counter balance and a DIY Shoulder Adapter for the rig. More to come.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. I will be more than glad to explain this procedure. There are many alternatives to this method. This was just my first take on it.

So I recently purchased the LCDVF DSLR Viewfinder from BHPhotoVideo.com to continue expanding on the DIY shoulder mount rig I recently have been building. Ideally, I would have liked to have used a DIY project. But after much research in tutorials online, I found that it just really isn’t worth the time or energy to have a shotty viewfinder made of a baby powder container, a toy magnifying glass, some duct tape, hot glue, spray paint, rubber bands, etc. If you went that route you would save some money, but I really like to have some professional presentation when dealing with clients.

I went with the cheapest viewfinder, the LCDVF DSLR Viewfinder. A little over $100, you have a sleek and fairly inexpensive viewfinder. This hard plastic magnifier mounts to your camera via magnets that doesn’t interfere with the camera itself or its memory. It comes with 2 metal frames for mounting, an eye-pad cushion, a strap, lens cleaning cloth and a carrying bag. The metal frame mounts around the LCD Frame with some serious adhesive that needs to set for approximately 15+ minutes. If you have a camera that has a sensor near the LCD screen, this may not be the best viewfinder for you. I have the Canon 7D, so the metal frame fits perfectly around the screen and it mounts great. The quality of the viewfinder is good, you can see great brightness and contrast of the LCD screen. It is no different than any viewfinder on any professional camcorder, if anything it is much better. The only downside is there is no diopter, so if you don’t have the best vision, you may want to go another route.

After much research on building a Do-It-Yourself DSLR Camera Rig, I stumbled upon a wonderful website, www.cheesycam.com, that features many inexpensive ways to build rigs and accessories for your camera. However as great as the website is about showing what people have done, there are some projects that lack tutorials on how to do certain things. So I’ve decided to make a tutorial on the rig I am currently in the process of building modeled after the Johan Plug Wire Clamps. This is Part 1 - The Basic Framework for our rig. In Part 2 and on, I will continue to add tutorials as add to this rig. Part 2 will be mounting the camera to the rig as well as a DIY Matte Box.

Note: These directions do not build a standard 15mm rig. However, most of the components being built for this rig are custom fitted. You will also be required to cut metals. Adult supervision is advised, if not just don’t be stupid and go chopping off your finger.

Parts List

• 2x - 12 PC Billet Wire Separators ($55.85) - Click Here to Buy
  If you can’t purchase the 12 PC, you can purchase 3 PC equivalents.
  Color is completely optional to you. I chose red. 
• 2x - 3/8”x1” Nylon Spacers ($1.97) - Home Depot UPC# 030699872084
• 4x - #10-32x2” Machine Screws ($0.98)
  Pack of 5 from Home Depot UPC# 030699279210
• 4x - 3/8”x36” Aluminum Round Rod ($23.88) - Home Depot UPC# 030699493807
• Bicycle Grips or Pipe Insulation - You may have these lying around.
  
  Note: Everything found at Home Depot was found in the Hardware Section.

Total Estimated Cost: $82.68

Tools List

• Allen Wrench - Provided with the Billet Wire Separators
• Flat Head Screw Driver
• Grinder with Metal Cut Off Wheel or Table Saw with Metal Cutting Wheel 
  Basically something to cut the aluminum Rods with 
• Metal Drill bit slightly larger than the #10 screw.
• Patience or an extra person to help hold things

Step 1. Cut the Aluminum Rod - Required: Grinder/Saw and 4x Aluminum Rods. I used a Grinder with a Cut Off Blade from Home Depot. The lengths will vary based on you. I’m 6’1” 250lbs so my shoulder support is longer. Cut the lengths that you feel comfortable using.

• 2x - 14” - These rods will support the DSLR Camera.
• 4x - 8” - These rods will make the handles.
• 2x - 18” - These rods will be the front support.
• 2x - 15” - These rods will be the shoulder support.
• 2x - ~6” - These rods will be additional support for the DSLR Camera.
• 2x - ~4” - These rods will be additional support for the shoulder to DSLR.

Step 2. Assemble the Shoulder Support - Required: 2x 15” rods, 2x 4-slotted billets and 3x 2-slotted billets.

1. Put one of the 2-slotted billets at the end of the rods and clamp both rods down with the provided allen wrench.
2. Put one of the 2-slotted billets approximately 3 billets down from the side with no billet and clamp both rods down.
3. Put one of the 4-slotted billet in the first slot of one rod and do the same with the other 4-slotted billet in the other rod. It is not necessary to tighten this down yet. It’ll be easier if they are loose and can slide freely.
4. Place the final 2-slotted billet on the opposite side of the other and clamp both rods down with the provided allen wrench.

Step 3. Assembling the Rear DSLR Support - Required: 2x 14” rods, 2x 4-slotted billets, 2x 4” rods and the Shoulder Assembly.

1. Clamp both 14” rods in Slot #1 and Slot #4 and both 4” rods in Slot #2 and Slot #3 in one of the 4-slotted billets. Make sure that all the ends are even on both the side with the clamp and the side without a clamp.
2. If you prefer the camera to be stabilized on your right shoulder, take the left 4-slotted billet on the shoulder assembly and clamp it to the Slot #3 Rod. Do the same for the right 4-slotted billet and clamp it to the Slot #4 Rod. Before clamping leave space for a 4-slotted billet to be mounted at the end of the 4 rods.
   If you prefer the camera to be stabilized on your left shoulder, you will just do the reverse - left billet to the Slot #1 Rod and right billet to the Slot #2 Rod. 

Step 4. Assembling the Camera Mount for the DSLR Support - Required: 2x 6” rods, 2x 4-slotted billets, 1x 2-slotted billet.

1. Take a 4-slotted billet and clamp it about 2 fingers away from the 4” rod billet.
2. Take both 6” rods and clamp them into the empty slots of the 4-slotted billet.
3. Take the 2-slotted billet and clamp it somewhere in the middle of both 6” rods.
4. Clamp the last 4-slotted billet across all 4 rods.

Step 5. Assembling the DSLR Support to Front Support - Required: 2x 18” rods, 2x 4-slotted billets, 2x 2-slotted billets, 2x 2” screws, 2x nuts (optional), and the DSLR Support Assembly

1. Remove the screws from a 4-slotted billet and both 2-slotted billets.
2. Take the bottom half of the 4-slotted billet and using the metal drill bit, strip the threads. This is done ONLY for the 4-slotted billet.
3. Take a 2” screw and feed it through one of the screw holes of the 4-slotted billet that was just de-threaded.
4. Take a 2-slotted billet and slide the top piece through the 2” screw so it cross-sects like a + with the 4-slotted billet. Screw on the bottom piece of the 2-slotted billet. It is not necessary to tighten the screw down.
5. Repeat 3 and 4 for the other hole.
6. Take the DSLR Support Assembly and slide the recently de-threaded 4-slotted billet about half-way between the camera support billet and the end of the rods.
7. Take both 18” rods and slide them through both 2-slotted billets attached to the 4-slotted billet via the 2” screw. If you are stabilizing the camera on your right shoulder, make sure the right ends of the 18” rods are 5” or so from the DSLR support. Vice versa for left shoulder stabilized.
8. Tighten down the 2” screw until all 4 rods are clamped down and are unable to slide.

Step 6. Assembling the Handles and Mounting them to the Front Support - Required: 4x 8” rods, 10x 2-slotted billets, 2x 2” screws, 2x nylon spacers, 2x nuts (optional), 2x bicycle grips.

1. Take 2x 8” rods and clamp a 2-slotted billet on one end.
2. Slide a bicycle grip down until it touches the 2-slotted billet that was just clamped.
3. Remove the screw from another 2-slotted billet and insert a 2” screw and mount to the other end of the 8” rods.
4. Take a nylon spacer and slide it over the end of the excess 2” screw. You may have to drill out the center of the nylon spacer.
5. Take 2x 2-slotted billets and loosen them to slide over the nylon spacer, having the screw face opposite sides.
6. Take the 2-slotted billets from the previous instruction and slide them onto the rods of the front support, one rod per billet. This creates a V to help the handles from moving.
7. Take another 2-slotted billet and clamp at the end of the front support with the handle.
8. Clamp the 2-slotted billets in the V-Pattern down to the front support and the nylon spacer. Make sure the 2-slotted billet with the 2” screw is at the end of the handle and is touching the last billet on the front support.

And voila! That gives you the framework for your new DSLR Rig. For larger photos, visit our Flickr account. I have not purchased the camera mount yet but I will have a tutorial soon on that very soon. When it comes to the aluminum rod, I personally did not favor the tent rods in the Cheesy Cam. I preferred something with a little more support. There are tutorials out there with carbon fiber rods as well. Remember this system is 3/8” rods, not the standard 15mm rods, so everything you add to it will have to be custom made or have clamps that can tighten down on it. 

I hope this helps someone in his or her future endeavors as an indie/pro filmmaker. I intend on doing more DIY tutorials as I tackle each need for my clients. Questions and positive comments are welcome.